Frenchette

241 W Broadway New York, NY 10013

The cooking of Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson is French the way French should feel, instinctive, serious without being solemn, and deeply satisfying. There's liver. There's bone marrow. A truly memorable baguette, baked in-house. Every plate arrives as if someone in the back actually cared, which is rarer than it should be and more moving than you'd expect.

If you must have only one dish, let it be the Brouillade, where you will find escargot floating like diamonds in a rough pool of soft-scrambled eggs. More like a luxurious soup than your traditional fluffy eggs. This dish stands out, stays with you, and walks you home after dinner. Full disclosure, you might need a second baguette.