Pottoka

4 rue de l'Exposition, 75007 Paris

The Basque have straddled the Spanish and French cuisines in a way that revives both sides of the border. At this casual, but friendly spot, the starters set the tone: vegetables treated with a deep respect. A plate of grilled seasonal greens comes smoky, charred in all the right places, the kind of bitterness that wakes up your mouth and reminds you what real freshness tastes like. We ordered a turbot fish so pristine you suspect it traveled from the ocean on a diplomatic passport, dressed with citrus that slices clean as a scalpel. Through it all, the flavors are clear, confident, and the dishes, while creative and beautiful, are lovingly undisturbed.