Zimmi’s

72 Bedford St New York, NY 10014

Zimmi’s does something most New York restaurants struggle with. It touches on modernizing classic cuisines, and refuses to throw in the towel. French country is the backbone, some American influence, but nothing that would take you out of the Provençal ether. Namely, the rabbit stew (one of the best dishes I’ve had in New York in years) is traditionally prepared, but it gives you more. The dishes are prepared gently, and not overdone. You know what you’re eating because the ingredients (which are sensational) aren’t smothered, they let every bite breathe, have its moment, make its mark.

The space is calming and classic New York. Again, nothing heavy-handed or glaringly forceful. Light’s are a little higher than they need to be, but it’s forgivable, because the food is so on point.